ROYAN AND THE ATLANTIC BEACHES

Website: One of the best websites is www.bernezac.com (English version) which gives details of the many towns and attractions around Royan.

1. FIRST PROPERTY: The apartment in the centre of Royan is about 700 meters from the main beach (Plage de la Grande Conche).

The large, chalet-style apartment is on the top (fourth) floor of a quiet complex with views across Royan to the Gironde.

There are 2 bedrooms and a mezzanine which sleeps 6 comfortably. The property has a fully equipped kitchen. There is also a TV-& CD player. The amenities include an undercover double-parking area, garage, lift and large terrace. The marvelous Royan market is a four minute walk away. If you are travelling by train or air then towels, sheets and pillow cases can be provided.The beaches surrounding Royan are within walking distance. These are the Conch du Pigeonnier, Conche du Chay, Conche du Foncillon and the Grande Conche. The extensive beach of the Conche de Saint George is about 4 km away and is reached by following the coast road.

Views from the terrace overlooking Royan towards the Gironde, to the west and the market.

General views in and around the complex.: 9

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External staircase provides an easy alternative to the lift.

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Entrance foyer.

ACCOMMODATION

Arrival and Departure: Saturday - Saturday (arrive 2 pm: leave mid-day).

This is a delightful, chalet-style apartment on the fourth (top) floor of a small modern 1980s development. There are 18 other apartments in the complex. The complex is in a quiet location away from main roads.

The accommodation comprises a large double bedroom, a double height (4.5 m) beamed L-shaped sitting room which leads to a mezzanine. Large sliding doors from the sitting room open onto a southeast-facing terrace (12 square metres). There is a TV and CD & DVD Players.

The balcony surrounding the terrace is sturdy and firm and of metallic construction and complies with safety standards. It is approximately one metre high and the gaps are of a narrow width.

The staircase to the mezzanine is a little steeper than a normal staircase, has open treads with a banister securely fixed to the wall. A stair gate can be fitted to the top of the stairs. The mezzanine has a heavy, secure balcony of about 80 cm high and the gaps between the railings are about 10 cm wide.

A small room leading from the mezzanine can be used as a single bedroom.

The main bedrooom is on the ground floor and there are two doors between it and the living area.

The kitchen door also opens out to the terrace. All the doors and windows are double-glazed. Modern (Venetian style) shutters are operated by internal winding mechanism.

The amenities include, a dishwasher, washing machine, tumble dryer,microwave electric oven iron and ironing board. There is a separate toilet and bathroom with a WC.

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There are covered parking spaces for two cars in addition to a garage. The parking spaces are numbered 2- 43 and 3- 43. The garage is the first one to the right of the main entrance when facing the building. Access to the garage is via a door to the right of the lift.

The apartment is reached by lift or wide external, covered spiral staircase. Care should be taken to ensure that the main glass lobby doors are closed when you enter or leave the building. There is a door phone and entry mechanism to allow access. If you prefer to walk up you will need to be met at the top or make sure you have a key to the door which opens into the
internal corridor. This is a safety door and can be opened quickly from the inside.

The Syndicat d'Initiative of Royan is opposite the Post Office on the Boulevard de La Grandiere at the west-end of the Grande Conche. They have complete information on all the events during the summer in Royan and on the Arvert Peninsular.

2. SECOND PROPERTY: The Traditional Charentais Farmhouse is in the village of L'Isle d'Etaules, 8 miles from Royan and 5 miles from the nearest beach (La Palmyre).

The spacious farmhouse, overlooking vineyards, is located in gentle countryside. It has a large fully equipped kitchen, two huge living areas, 3 double bedrooms. The garden is secure and young children can be allowed to play safely. The farmhouse sleeps 7 + baby comfortably. There is a Sky receiver and a DVD recorder. If you are traveling by train or air then towels, sheets and pillow cases can be provided.

Etaules is a small market town of approximately 2000 inhabitants situated on the D14 that leads to the port of La Tremblade. The town itself is quite prosperous but even with new housing on the fringes it has kept its traditional character. I'lsle d'Etaules is 3 km to the south of Etaules on the D145 and is surrounded by rolling farmlands. To the west and southwest are the wide sandy beaches of La Cote Sauvage, La Grande Cote and La Palmyre; large areas of pine forest extend from the coast inland.

The building has been modernised with three rooms on both floors. The kitchen is large (cuisine communale) and has a gas hob, an electric oven, refrigerator, freezer, dishwasher, microwave, crockery and necessary utensils.

The kitchen leads into a large sitting room and the digital satellite system is located in this room.

The sitting room leads into a large double bedroom (5' bed ) and also opens to the front of the house and into the chai.

The 'chai' (barn) is at least 200 years old and the building has been extended over the years. The chai, has a similar floor area to the main house and adjoins the house at the rear and is open to the original beams (these were constructed from ships which had been broken up at Rochefort). This space has recently been renovated and insulated and is used as a living area from May to October and is pleasantly cool when the weather is hot.

There is a separate shower room, toilet and a laundry area with a washing machine and tumble dryer all of which are reached from the chai. The cost of gas and electricity are included in the letting price. The house is connected to main drainage.

On the first floor there are two double bedrooms with separate access (one with a 5 foot bed and the other with a 4'6" bed and 3' single bed), all have wooden floors and rugs. All the beds are of pine construction with slats and have firm mattresses. There is also a large cot with an adjustable side.

We provide duvets, blankets and covers and English style pillows but not sheets and pillow cases, therefore please bring your own sheets and pillow cases. You may prefer to bring your own duvets or duvet covers if you have space in your car. Iron and ironing board are provided.

The garden area goes back about 30 meters from the arch and there is off-road parking.

The garden may be completely isolated from the road by closing (and locking) the large gates in the arch. The garden is enclosed by a 1.5 m high wire fence (behind a hedge) and wooden fences. There is sufficient space in the garden for young children to play but its not big enough for major'ball games. There is a modern circular style washing line at the end of the garden.

A 2.5 metre opening from the chai leads into an enclosed area which has modern garden furniture and a BBQ.

La Grande Conche is about 700 m from the apartment and is safe bathing for young children.

Next to the Conche du Foncillon is the open-air heated swimming pool which is raised above the beach and has views over the Gironde. This is open during from June to August and is a beautifully maintained facility. Tickets are half price after 5 p.m. It makes a change from the beaches and even on a cooler day is very comfortable.

The marina is situated between the Conche du Foncillon and La Grande Conche.

From St. Palais-sur-Mer to Meschers-sur-Gironde there are a number of small sheltered sandy coves. The picture below is of Le Pigeonnier plage which is to the west of Royan between Foncillion and Pontaillac.

Beaches at Ronce-les-Bains are shallow and safe. There are three main car parks between Ronce-les-Bains and the Pointe du Gaton d'Or, and there is off road parking all along this stretch.

Between La Palmyre and the La Cote Sauvage is the Phare de La Coubre which is reached by walking across the dunes. The main beaches of the Cote Sauvage continue westwards.

La Grande Cote is a long sandy beach which borders the North side of the Gironde, and is one of the most popular beach because of its accessibility. There are number of submerged blocks which were part of the Atlantic wall. Access to La Grande Cote is from the D25. Park along the roadside and walk through the pine woods to the sea.

Once away from the immediate beach area the traffic is light even during July and August. To the north is the river Seudre, on the banks of which are many small ports and oyster parks (Parc a Huitres); the surrounding countryside is quiet and can be explored by cycling.

Royan was a small but busy harbour in the 11th Century and was fortified in the 12th century because of its strategic position at the mouth of the Gironde. It was fought over during the Hundred Years War and the subsequent religious wars. In the early 17th Century it was destroyed by the Duke Epernon. The town declined until the early 19th century when it developed as a holiday resort. Its clientele was mainly from Bordeaux but with the arrival of the railway in 1875 writers, painters and artists from Paris were attracted to the region and was very much a resort of the Belle Epoque.

By the early 20th century the town boasted many luxury homes and hotels and several casinos, and was referred to as˜Nice of the North". In January 1945 an Allied air raid and naval bombardment destroyed a large part of the central section of the town including the famous casinos. Passing from the east of

Royan the Large Edwardian houses in the Park de Royan are suddenly replaced by the new architecture; the Victorian and Edwardian houses re-appear again as one approaches Pontaillac on the Western side of the town.

The town was rebuilt in a unified and orderly style with wide streets and simple lines and a search for perspectives so that the boulevards, main square and the market are distinctive.

The wide Boulevard Briand leads from the market to the large park bordering the Plage de la Grande Conch and the harbour. This Boulevard and the sea front itself comprises the main shopping area which is quite varied. Shops stay open until about 8 p.m. In and around the centre of Royan there are about 75 restaurants and brassieres and about 30 bars and cafes, plenty of which are close to the sea and harbour.

There is a Champion supermarket on the Bvd. du Colonel Baillet about 1 km away and the other is an E.Leclerc hypermarket on the north east of the town about 3km away on the Saintes road.

Two buildings are of particular note: The Notre-Dame Church built between 1955 and 1958 is reminiscent of the great Gothic cathedrals. The interior is dramatic and should be seen.

The covered market also built in 1955 is in the form of an immense shell and the range of fresh food that can be bought is outstanding.

The market is open seven days a week (7am - 1pm) and it is better to get there earlier, rather than later to appreciate the spectacle. The market can be seen from the apartment through the trees.

We recommend that you buy map number 37 (La Cote De Beaute) from the Collection Rivages. These do not cover the whole of France but detail selected holiday areas.

Portmouth to St. Malo (Brittany Ferries). The most direct route, which involves the least driving in France, starts at St. Malo. The night crossing from Portsmouth to St. Malo with Brittany Ferries takes 11 hours and arrives 8 a.m. (French time); the distance to Royan is 280 miles and takes about 5 hours to drive. Follow the N137 to Nantes. The ring road around Nantes will save you some time if the traffic is heavy and then continue on the N137 to Royan. Alternatively join the new A83 motorway from Nantes to Niort which links up with the A10 to Saintes (direction Bordeaux). This is the easiest route to drive but is about 30 miles longer than the following routes.

The most direct route is to join the A83 and leave it at junction 7 signposted to La Rochelle. About half of this road to La Rochelle and Rochefort is dual carriageway. However, during the peak holiday season there are always long queues at Marans which are best avoided. If you like D-roads take the turn off to St. Radegonde and Villedoux (D10, D9) and join the N137 just to the North of La Rochelle. This route takes you through the southern marais and canal system and is a pleasant drive.

If you want to explore the region then continue on the A83 and leave at junction 8 and travel to Maillezais. If you have time for lunch then try the Restaurant situated under trees in the tiny port at the head of the canal. Nearby is the huge 12th century Abbaye du Marais. This is a great spot and is worth a day trip. Then continue on the D15 to Courcon; the D116 to Forges and Rochefort. The roads are good and quiet but the journey may take about half an hour longer than the previous route.

Portsmouth to Cherbourg (Brittany Ferries). The day crossing time is 4.45 hours and the 380-mile drive takes 6-8 hours. Go through St. Lo, Avranches, and Rennes and join the N137.

Portsmouth to Le Havre (Brittany Ferries). The crossing time is 6.0 hours; the distance to Royan is about miles 370 and again takes 6-8 hours. The most direct route, avoiding toll motorways, is Liseaux via the Pont de Normandy, Alencon, Le Man, Saumur, Niort, Parthenay and Rochefort. All the towns are by-passed and the roads are very good. Or you can go from Le Mans to Tours and join the motorway to Saintes.

Portsmouth to Ouistrehem (Caen)(Brittany Ferries). The crossing time is 6.0 hours with Brittany Ferries, and the drive takes 6-8 hours.

Both P&O and Brittany Ferries have travel clubs, which can cut costs if you make several crossings a year. With P&O you buy £600 worth of shares and get a 40-50% discount on each crossing.

Dover, Le Havre, Cherbourg, Caen and St. Malo are linked to the South by dual carriageways and motorways and travel times have dropped quite significantly during the past decade. New motorways from Le Havre to Alencon and Rouen to Alencon are now under construction.

If you take an afternoon crossing you may prefer to find a hotel for the night, use the 'Logis de France' Hotel guide for good, inexpensive hotels. There are also dozens of Ibis and Formule 1 hotels throughout France which are reasonably priced.

Brouage: Medieval fortified town (13 metre high walls built between 1630-1640) surrounded by farmlands and canals, former port now abandoned by the sea. Very picturesque. Reached by crossing the bridge (3 km North of La Tremblade) leading to Marennes. There is no toll.

The return trip could be made via the D241 along the North bank of the Seudre through St. Sornin which has magnificent 11-12th century ruins (Broue's Dungeon) overlooking the Marais and Brouage. At the junction of the D14 and the N733 at Fontbedeau is a large 'Cave Cooperative' and worth a visit. Alternatively this trip could include a visit to Rochefort.

Blaye (Cote de Blaye): The coastal route from Etaule to Blaye moves from flatter to picturesque hilly countryside and passes through the wine region on the north side of the Gironde. A tour of the vineyards is just as rewarding as the Medoc: the vintages are good but significantly cheaper.

Foret Domaniale de Coubre, Palmyre and St. Augustine: This is a very large expanse of pine forest which covers much of the west and south of the peninsular.

Fouras: Is a classic holiday resort (North of Rochefort). This is one of the most picturesque towns in the region. There is a sandy beech with beach schools and play areas and lines of umbrellas and a tidal swimming pool. The beech has the same feeling as the town in "M. Hulot's Holiday" (Jacques Tati). Fouras was Napoleon's last contact with the French mainland before his eventual exile. A passenger ferry runs from the Pointe de la Fumee to the lle d'Aix, departing every half an hour. The crossing lasts about 20 minutes. Ile de Madame can be reached by causeway from Fouras.

Ile de Madame: This is relatively small island (75 hectares) lying at the mouth of the Charente. It is reached by a driving or walking over a causeway which is covered at high tide. There is a spectacular line of fishing cabins with dip-nets on the west side of the island.

lle d'Oleron: Largest French Island after Corsica, the old town is attractive and there are some magnificent beaches (but at times rough water) and pine forests on the Atlantic side. The beaches on the sheltered side of the island (opposite Fouras) are not usually crowded and there is hardly any swell. There are no longer tolls from La Tremblade to Marennes and from Marennes to lle d'Oleron. The causeway to the lle d'Oleron must be one of the longest in France and well worth the drive. Follow the 'Route des Huitres' to the Forest and Plage des Saumonards. The citadel at Chateau d'Oleron is a classic fort. There is a large car park in the main square of the town.

Mornac-sur-Seudre: Has an ancient Romanesque church, 12th Century sanctuary and remains of a 17th castle. The village is well known for its arts and crafts workshops. During the spring and summer the narrow streets are bright with the many flowers beds and hanging baskets. Very pretty in the early summer. Drive through the village down to the quay where there are parking spaces and one or two bars and restaurants .

Port at La Palmyre: The port is situated to the west of the beach. There is a 3km path and cycleway from the port at La Palmyre to the Grande Cote.

La Roche Courbon: Interesting Chateau of mixed architectural styles (the early part is fourteenth century) with large gardens and a lake; situated just north of the N137 between Rochefort and Saintes.

Rochefort: Rochefort underwent extensive developed during the seventeenth century and the naval dockyard was started in 1666. The dockyard is being restored and an eighteen century frigate is being constructed in one of the dry docks. The Royal Ropewalk is the most impressive building in Rochefort.

La Rochelle: The old harbour is the centre of the town and is used almost entirely as a haven for yachts. This is one of the most active sailing centres on the Atlantic coast. Powerful fortifications overlook the main channel. The old town centre has been preserved well and the shops and precinct have been designed to be in keeping with the ancient stone facades. Very pleasant town to stroll around. Best to take the exit to Port des Minimes to the south of La Rochelle and park in the huge car park next to the marina. Take the ferry to the port of La Rochelle entering between the towers of the citadel.

St. George de Didonne: Has a magnificent 3.5 km sandy beach bordered with pines and oaks. Safe bathing. The cliffs have some of the best fossil beds in the region. Take a hammer and chisel if you are keen on fossil hunting. Park at the South end of the Plage de St. George (where the road turns through 90 and meets the D25). Then walk along the beach south-eastwards to the Point de Suzac the exposed fossil beds are in the sandstone cliffs .

Semussac: Nearby is the castle of Dodonne (7 km from Royan on the D730); it is the centre of local wine making. There is a park and agricultural museum; Cognac, Pineau and wines of the Charente can be tasted.

La Tremblade: Is located at the mouth of the Seudre and leads to the large oyster farming centre, the Marennes Basin which produces the premier oysters in France. Sea fishing is an important occupation and it is possible to join a working trip or hire a boat. (Ask the local oyster men). La Tremblade has a fish market and street market each morning which sells most types of fresh food produce, clothes and holiday ware. On Tuesdays and Saturdays there is a much larger market. The centre is very pretty and it is enjoyable to sit in the cafes for a while, perhaps before going to the beach. The Port extends along one of the inlets for about 2 km and and there a range of seafood restaurants along the quay.

Venice Vert: The local name for the canal system centred on Coulon (west of Niort) and is one of the largest canal systems in Western Europe. Small punts can be hired for a few hours or longer.

These notes list the places of interest most of which are within a 10-90 minutes drive from the apartment. There is plenty to do without leaving the Arvert peninsular at all but there are many other historic towns and villages in the Charente Maritime which can be easily visited in a day. France is about twice the size of the UK (with about the same population) and it has one of the best road systems in Europe now. If you drive during the lunch period, particularly inland, then you'll have the roads almost to yourself.

Schools based in Royan and La Palmyre bus each group and theequipment to the beaches. Instruction is in 5-day blocks. Contact the Syndicate d'Initiative at Etaules for details about surfing and windsurfing (or contact me for details).

The area surrounding Etaules is good for gentle cycle rides through the local wooded roads and open farmlands either towards the sea or the river Seudre. Keen cyclists could get to the beaches easily but cycling on the main roads is more comfortable outside the main holiday period, although French drivers usually show much more respect for cyclists than their English counterparts. There are many cycle routes in the region.

A very good, picturesque, golf course (Terrain de Golf) is situated at Champagnolle, North of Vaux sur-Mer about 8 Km away.

The best riding stable in the area is next to the golf course: it has a large enclosed area and rides through the local woods costs about 16 E an hour.

Les Trois Canards: At Avallon off to the right between Etaules and Arvert. More up market restaurant, 10 -40E menus plus a la carte. Good value but can be very busy.

L'Etable: On the D14 just past the centre of Arvert towards La Tremblade). Grill, value for money, nice atmosphere and quite busy during the season. 10 -40E menus plus a la carte ( tel: 05 46 36 40 39).

Pizzeria Roma: (Pizzas et Pates) 49 Rue Charles Herve, Etaules. Italian food, good value (when you don't feel like preparing a meal) 6 - 10E per person (tel: 05 46 36 82 24).

La Cabane du Port at Chatressac: Seasonal restaurant on the banks of the Seudre. They only serve fresh sea-food.

Comptoire du Nouveau Monde: Le Comptoire is off the main road that passes through the centre of Brouage. There is a parking area as you enter from the south or places can be found in the maze of streets. The plat du jour or the a la carte are both good value.

La Jabotiere: Is situated off the esplanade Pontalliac between Royan and Vaux sur Mer . It is on a peninsular not far from the casino with views over the Gironde. A bit up-market. Menus from 15-60F (tel: 05 46 39 91 29).

Casino restaurant at Pontaillac: This one of the best restaurants of the region. The restaurant is reached via the casino and it has views across the beach towards the Gironde.

Restaurant le Cardinal des Mers, 25 bd Corniche (across the bay from Royan). This is a great situation with views across the Gironde and towards Royan. Always book ahead if you plan sunday lunch here and ask for a table near the windows. Tremendous value (good helpings) and a great atmosphere.

Restaurant Le Pierre Loti: 13 rue Pierre Loti. 5 minutes walk from the apartment in Royan. Family run restaurant. Good value (menus 10- 30E). Their sea food menu includes an excellent pallela (05 46 39 91 47).

Chez Gaby: Port at La Tremblade. Only go here if you want to eat sea food exclusively. The food is fresh and portions are generous( menus 10 -30E). They do steaks but there is no point in ordering them (46 36 01 47).

Les Grilladins des Mers: (Ile d'Oleron). This restaurant is situated immediately at the end of the causeway, off to the right, where there is a large car park. Superb 'plat du jour' (14E) as featured in Rick Stein's French Odyssey.

Restaurant du Port (Ile d'Oleron): Le Port (05 46 47 61 30). Cross the Viaduc d'Oleron and turn right to Chateau d'Oleron and bear right towards the Port. The restaurant is situated on the Port with views towards the Citadel. Reasonably priced Buffet lunch or 'a la carte' menu.

In and around the centre of Royan there are about 75 restaurants and brassieres and about 30 bars and cafes, plenty of which are close to the sea and harbour.

We have never been in a French restaurant where children are unwelcome and where it has been any trouble to cater for them. If you plan to have Sunday lunch at any restaurant, then make a booking a day or two in advance.